The Art and Legacy of Erté
If there were any single artist who encapsulated the extravagance, luxury, and brilliance of the Art Deco era, it would be Erté.
An accomplished artist, costume designer, and graphic designer, the work of Erté is famous worldwide not only as physical art, but in the form of jewelry as well.
The clean lines and sharp colorblocking of this sterling silver, gold, mother-of-pearl and onyx cuff bracelet designed by Erté is a true testament to the hallmarks of Erté’s most famous work.
Read on to learn more about Erté and his journey to capture the spirit of the Art Deco period.
Erté, born Roman Tyrtov in St. Petersburg, Russia in 1892, began creating sculptures at 15 years old. After moving to Paris in 1910, he assumed a pseudonym, Erté, to avoid association with his family in Russia.
After working for designer Paul Poiret, Erté began designing covers for Harper’s Bazaar. His covers for Harper’s Bazaar are some of his most famous work.
In addition to his cover illustrations, Erté’s work in fashion design is famous as well. He designed costumes for dancers and famous actresses of the 1920s such as Marion Davies and Lillian Gish. Not only did he design costumes for stage productions, but he also created the set design for many shows as well, including the Ziegfeld Follies, Paris’s Folies Bergere and George White’s Scandals.
Set design sketch by Erté for Les Plaisirs de la Danse, 1947
Costume by Erté for Ganna Walska in Tosca, 1920
Costume by Erté for Ganna Walska in Tosca, 1920
The 1940s may have been the end of the Art Deco era, but Erté continued to design for many productions until the 1960s, when the Art Deco revival began and interest in his work rose again.
Erté started to design jewelry in the 1970s using references from his previous designs. Using precious and semi-precious stones, his jewelry designs were a continuation of the elegance and luxuriousness he was known for throughout the 1920s and 1930s.
“Rayonnement” ring by Erté
“Love Screen” brooch by Erté
Erté passed away in 1990 at the age of 97. He is remembered as a pioneer of the Art Deco movement and a landmark designer of his time. His art survives in not only exquisite jewelry, but as art in museums and private collections.
The work of Erté has always encapsulated both femininity itself as well as the power that hides behind femininity. This “Tempest” cuff showcases the feminine essence that Erté is famous for in his designs. This bracelet, in particular, draws from a 1930 Harper’s Bazaar cover depicting a silhouette of a woman’s head in black and white against a striking, colorful rainbow.
This “Tempest” cuff works both as a perfect introductory piece to an Erté jewelry collection and as a refreshing addition to an existing collection. This cuff bracelet is part of Erté’s famous “Art to Wear” jewelry collection. The contrast of dark black onyx and iridescent mother of pearl brings to mind the sharp contrasts of color and shape present in Erté’s work of the 1920s and 1930s.
In addition, this piece includes multiple authentication documents as well as an appraisal record. This limited edition piece is also numbered 336/600, and inscribed with Erté’s signature.
To learn more about this “Tempest” cuff bracelet, click here.